Kamali's Sophomore Show for Chloé in Paris Dazzled with Lightness

Thomas Adamson READ TIME: 17 MIN.

A model wears a creation as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris
Source: Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP

Naomi Campbell Honored in France Amid Charity Controversy

Iconic British model Naomi Campbell was awarded a prestigious honor in France, being named a knight in the Order of Arts and Letters at the culture ministry for her significant contributions to French culture.

A model wears a creation as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris
Source: Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP

However, this recognition comes as Campbell faces scrutiny back home, having been barred from serving as a charity trustee in England and Wales for five years. This decision follows a three-year investigation into the financial activities of her charity, "Fashion for Relief," which was found to have been "poorly governed" and lacking in "adequate financial management."

A model wears a creation as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris
Source: Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP

The Charity Commission, which oversees charities in England and Wales, reported multiple instances of misconduct, revealing that only 8.5% of the charity's expenditures went to charitable grants over a six-year period from 2016. Notably, the inquiry uncovered that charity funds were misused for Campbell's luxury hotel stays during events in Cannes, alongside personal expenses such as spa treatments and room service.

A model wears a creation as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris
Source: Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP

In response to a question from the AP, Campbell said, "I've just found out today about the findings and I am extremely concerned. We are investigating on our side. I was not in control of my charity; I put the control in the hands of a legal employer. We are investigating to find out what and how, and everything I do and every penny I ever raised goes to charity."

A model wears a creation as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris
Source: Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP

Alongside Campbell, fellow trustee Bianka Hellmich has been disqualified for nine years after receiving unauthorized payments for consultancy services, while trustee Veronica Chou has been barred for four years. The charity, founded in 2005 to unite the fashion industry in addressing global poverty, was dissolved earlier this year, having raised over $15 million for various causes worldwide.

A model wears a creation as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris
Source: Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP

Despite the controversy, Campbell's honor in France highlights her lasting impact on the cultural landscape.

Designer Chemena Kamali accepts applause after the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris
Source: Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP

Rick Owens Enchants with Gothic Splendor

At Thursday's show at the Palais de Tokyo, Rick Owens unleashed a captivating spectacle that felt like a dramatic descent into a realm inhabited by gothic aliens. The atmosphere was thick with smoke and suspense as an army of biblical figures marched out in impressive diagonal formations, their asymmetrical knee-high leather boots featuring translucent heels, making each step a statement.

Owens' trademark angular, alien-like geometric shoulders dominated the runway, capturing the essence of his singular vision–one that merges dark romanticism with avant-garde aesthetics. The collection was a testament to his ability to blend his gothic instincts with a sense of reverent irreverence, reminiscent of the "delicate time" he referenced in previous collections, where beauty and horror coexist.

As the show unfolded, a billowing coven emerged, clad in oversized black priest-like hoods and flowing tulle cloaks that draped elegantly over their forms. Some models donned discreet headscarves, striking a balance between reverence and defiance, perfectly embodying Owens' commentary on societal norms. This juxtaposition echoes his commitment to inclusivity, presenting a vision of fashion that celebrates diversity while challenging conventional beauty standards.

The intricate craftsmanship used in the collection exemplified Owens' mastery. Each piece, from the cloaks to the striking silhouettes, invited viewers to appreciate humble fabrics. This aligns with his insistence that he presents "the most excellent aesthetics" possible, recognizing the nuanced interplay between the dark and the light in our world.

While some may find Owens' aesthetic too avant-garde or even gloomy, this show reaffirmed his position as a provocative force in fashion. The theatricality and elaborate design remind us of his role as one of the last independent designers in Paris, navigating the complexities of the fashion landscape with fierce authenticity.

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Associated Press journalist Marine Lesprit contributed to this report.


by Thomas Adamson

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